Nepalganj is connected via road to Lucknow — a scenic six-hour drive through relatively uninhabited stretches. If driving, try to leave Lucknow in the morning so you can reach Bardia by day. Ask a hotel representative to meet you at Ambassa, the main turn-off to the park, since there are no road signs after this point. You can also raft down the Karnali river straight into Bardia. Try Himalayan River Fun (+977-1-4444618, www.nepalraft.com).

Where To Stay If you are looking for luxury, Karnali Lodge (doubles for $200-250) is your answer. Run by Tiger Tops, the pioneering wildlife safari lodge company, the lodge also runs the Karnali Tented Camp, right inside the sanctuary on the Karnali river. Each tent has twin beds and bamboo bathrooms with piping hot water.

See www.tigermountain.com. If you are content with comfort, try Forest Hideaway cottages (doubles for $ 25; www.foresthideaway.com.np), with rooms built in the local Tharu style around a small garden, good food, excellent jungle guides and its helpful owner, Mohan Aryal. Other options include Bardia Jungle Cottages (www.visit nepal.com/bjc) and Rhino Lodge Bardia (www.rhinolodgebardia.com.)

When To Go November to March is the best time, specially if you want to do walking safaris.

What To Do Stay at least three to four nights. Try different ways to see wildlife: walking safaris, rafting trips, elephant and jeep safaris. Fishing trips, bicycle tours of local villages and trips to Tharu villages are other attractions. Longer river-rafting trips on the Karnali and trekking in the Churiya Hills are other possibilities.

What To See The one-horned rhino, elephant and tiger — as well as hog, swamp and spotted deer, wild boar. While rafting, you may spot Gangetic dolphin and gharials. Bardia abounds in birdlife, with over 250 species, including storkbilled kingfisher and changeable hawk-eagle.