Getting There By AIR Both Air India and Kingfisher Red offer non-stop flights from Delhi to Kullu. The airport is at Bhuntar (10km from Kullu), from where taxis and buses are available. Book early and get tickets for around Rs 3,000 (all-inclusive). BY RAIL The nearest station to the GHNP is the narrow-gauge railhead at Joginder Nagar near Mandi (95km from Kullu), from where you will have to take a taxi. This station is well-connected to other parts of the country. BY ROAD To get to GHNP one has to take the eastern divergence at Aut on the Kullu-Manali highway. Aut is 45km from Mandi and 30km from Kullu. From Larji, which is 4km from Aut, two routes — one along the Sainj Nala, motorable till Neuli (26km) and the other along Tirthan Nala, motorable upto Gushaini (28km) — lead to the park. Bus is really the best mode of transport especially for trekkers. Overnight buses ranging from ordinary to deluxe and AC sleeper Volvos ply this route daily. Or get off at Aut and take a taxi to Gushaini or Neuli in the Sainj valley (Rs 500). (Contact: for bookings, try Himachal Roadways General Inquiry, 011-23868694, 9891081135; Volvo inquiry and reservation, 011-23324764). The 754 sq km park is only accessible by foot.

Trekking In The Park The treks in the GHNP are moderate to strenuous and require you to be in good physical condition. Porters, guides and cooks can be hired on a per-day rate from Biodiversity Tourism and Community Advancement (BTCA), a local self-help group, which is quite cheap (porters: Rs 200, cook: Rs 350, guide: Rs 350) if you have your own trekking gear. Contact Gopal at 9418282148. Permits for entering the park are available from the Tirthan Wildlife Range Office at Sai Ropa (01902-265320), and from the Jiwa Nala Wildlife Range Office at Larji (01905-228368).  Fee: Indians Rs 50/day; foreigners: Rs 200/day. Basic provisions and rations are available in the small market in Gushaini .

The Route Total distance is 85km. Grade: strenuous. Though this is a cross-valley trek it is best done from Gushaini to Neuli. Day 1: Gushaini to Rolla, 10km. Day 2: Rolla to Nara Thach, 12km. Day 3: Nara Thach to Kobri Thach and back to Nara Thach, 12km. Day 4: Nara Thach to Ghumtarao, a tough 14km walk. Day 5: Ghumtarao to Patal, 2km. This can be the rest day. Day 6: Patal to Dhel meadows, 14km. Day 7: Dhel to Bah via Lapa, a tough, downhill 16km walk. Day 8: Bah to Neuli roadhead in Sainj valley, 5km.You can also do the same trek and go via Shilt and Rakhondi, which is the more popular trail and also spares you one especially tough day of the trail. There are numerous other moderate and tougher treks in the park as well. The sources of the Tirthan and Sainj rivers make for lovely treks. For more treks and information see www.greathimalayannationalpark.com.

Accommodation The Sai Ropa Tourist Center in Tirthan valley is ideal for trekkers, and has three en suite rooms (Rs 500/day) and four 12-bedded dorms at Rs 100/bed. Simple food can be arranged by the chowkidar. Raju’s Guesthouse by the river in Gushaini enjoys one of the most idyllic settings with excellent home-cooked fare on offer. Book way in advance if you wish to stay here. Tariff: Rs 1,250 per person per day including all meals. (01903-225008, 09418149808). Himalayan Trout House, Nagini, is also a good option in the valley. Tariff: Rs 2,000/day for eco cabins, Rs 2,600/day for mud huts (en suite) and Rs 3,400/day for the designer suites. Breakfast and lunch included (contact
Christopher at 9418128383, www.mountainhighs.com).

Trekking Operators I trekked with a group of six keen and experienced trekkers and members of the Himalayan Club. It’s a great forum that organises talks on topics and treks related to the Himalayas and also a platform that gives you the opportunity to meet other hillbillies. For more, see www.himalayanclub.org. For organised trekking try Sunshine Travels. Their tariff of Rs 1,500/person per day (minimum group of six) is inclusive of permits, personal porter, cook, guide, all food, trekking equipment and toilet tents. Bring your own sleeping bag (contact Ankit Sood on 9418102083, www.sunshineadventure.com).

When To Go April is great for birding. May to June and mid-September to end October are ideal for trekking. For wildlife sightings,  late October and November are best.
Ahtushi Deshpande