China
The Information
Taiwan’s capital city is a startling blend of old and new. Text and photographs by Vidura Jang Bahadur
TopTip

Stress buster Leisure farms are very popular in Taiwan and from spending a quiet evening with friends, reading a book to taking part in a DIY activity, you could be spinning giant tops, singing the latest karaoke hits or watching ducks race at one of these farms.

Leisure farms started as a way to enable farmers to supplement their earnings, especially given the fact that Taiwan is prone to typhoons that often damage crops. The Shangrila Leisure Farm (+886-3-9511456, www.shangrilas.com.tw) in Yilan County is an excellent getaway from Taipei and you could team this up with a visit to Yilans National Centre for Traditional Arts and Jinguashi where the gold ecological park is located. The drive from Taipei offers some of the most stunning views of the sea.

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Getting There China Airlines flies directly from Delhi to Taipei for approximately Rs 50,000 return. However, cheaper options of approximately Rs 30,000 can be found among many of the South-east Asian Airlines, including Thai Airways, Malaysia Airlines, Singapore Air and Cathay Pacific, all of which make a stop at their home countries.

Getting Around Cabs are easily available, though a tad expensive. Public transport is excellent and easy to access. The Taipei Metropolitan Rapid Transit (MRT) stretches across the length and breadth of the city making it one of the best in the world. Signage is very good and people are helpful. Buying a rechargeable ‘easy card’ to pay for tickets on the MRT and buses is advisable. A one-day metro pass costs NT$200 (1 New Taiwan Dollar= Rs 1.5).

Where To Stay
A great high-end option is the Hotel Eclat (from NT$5,500; +886-2-27848888, www.eclathotels.com), which has an excellent collection of contemporary Chinese and European art including an Andy Warhol in one of its private dining rooms. Hotel 8 Zone (NT$6,000; 23583500, www.hotel8zone.com) is a lovely boutique hotel, with a very contemporary and chic design. Tourists and locals both throng to Spring City Resort (NT$5,610; 28974112, www.springresort.com.tw) famed for its hot springs. The décor is simple and guests can even enjoy a bath in hot spring water in the privacy of their rooms. For those on a budget, the YMCA (from NT$1,800; 23113201, www.ymca hotel.tw) and the Taipei Backpackers Hostel (from NT$420; 25590202, www.taipeibackpackers.com) are the best options. Both places are located close to the MRT and the bus stations.

Where To Eat For cheap and inexpensive snacks try the Shi Lin night market, the old street in Danshui or the market near Taiwan Normal University. Street food even in other parts of the city is generally very good. Try the stinky tofu, fish ball soup and oyster omelettes, a local favourite. If you’re looking for a quick bite, pop into the nearest 7-Eleven and grab a packet of fan bian mian or instant noodles, eggs hard boiled in soya sauce and tea leaves or simply sandwiches. You know you’re in the boondocks if you haven’t passed a 7-Eleven in over a kilometre. There are several convenience stores to choose from — 7-Eleven, Family Mart and Hi-Life are among the most popular. With over 9,204 outlets at the end of last year, Taiwan is said to have the highest density of convenience stores in the world. There are several good dining-out choices as well. To sample the cuisine of imperial China head to The Silks Palace (28829393, www.silkspalace.com.tw) at the National Palace Museum. The trendy Shi-Yang Cultural Restaurant is also worth checking out (28620078, www.shi-yang.com). If you have the stomach for it, the Modern Toilet (pic left) is a must-visit, not so much for the menu (which ranges from Korean to Texan) as for the wacky toilet-themed décor (23118822, www.moderntoilet.com.tw).

What To See & Do

  • Visit the world’s tallest completed skyscraper, Taipei 101 (admission fee for the observatory on the 89th and the outdoor observatory on the 91st floor: NT$400/adults; concessions: children under the age of 12: NT$370, group tickets for 20 people or more: NT$350, www.taipei-101.com.tw).
  • National Palace Museum (admission fee: NT$160 for general audiences, NT$120 for groups of 10 or more. Group admission is NT$100 per person, plus a rental fee of NT$20 for the NPM audio tour unit. Please note that all purchasers of group tickets must use the NPM group audio tour system. Discounted rate of NT$80 for students, free for children under school age and for the physically challenged and an accompanying person; see www.npm.gov.tw/en/home.htm).
  • Chiang Kai Shek memorial, where the changing of the guards is worth a watch at the stroke of every hour. The memorial also houses a museum with several of Chiang’s personal belongings.
  • Danshui is also a good place to spend a relaxed evening. You can take the ferry from the wharf to the old street and enjoy some excellent street food and music.
  • Yang Ming Shan with its scenic views and hot springs makes for an excellent getaway. If you’re looking to go hiking there are several trails you can follow up into the mountains.
  • There are several temples in the city. Prominent among them are the Xingtian Gong and Long Shan temples. Tian Hou Gong in Ximenting often has live opera and theatre performances that are a treat to watch. Ximenting itself is an exciting place to visit where temples, Indian restaurants, nail bars, queer-friendly, old theatres and the city’s biggest karaoke place are all a stone’s throw from each other.
Taiwan’s capital city is a startling blend of old and new. Text and photographs by Vidura Jang Bahadur
 
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