Where To Stay There are hotels, hostels, pensions and B&Bs in the Ticino region (see www.ticino.ch). We stayed at the Serpiano (from CHF 120; www.serpiano.ch) in Mendrisio, which has unbeatable views of the elbow of Lake Lugano and the towns around it. There are buses between the Mendrisio railway station and the hotel. In the small town of Sementina, we stayed at the Hotel Cereda (from CHF 108; www.hotel cereda.ch). Buses to and from the Bellinzona railway station, less than 4km away, stop right in front of the hotel.

What To See & Do If travelling with children, Swissminiatur, on Lake Lugano, will entrance them, not so much for the little buildings as for the accompanying working models of trains, cable cars and boats. See www.swissminiatur.ch. The nature walk along the Monte San Giorgio is an informative and beautiful trek. In Bellinzona, start at the tourist information centre in the City Hall for a guided tour or self tour around the town and the three castles that guard it.

Fiesch

Where To Stay There are a few, small hotels at Fiesch, including the Fiescherhof (from CHF 75; www.fiescherhof.ch) and the Sporthotel Derby (from CHF 75; www.sporthotelderby.ch). Both are walking distance from the cable car and the railway station. Hotel guests handle their own luggage in Switzerland, and there are not always lifts and ramps, so pack light. Smaller hotels are usually not air-conditioned.

What To See & Do Take a cable car up to Eggishorn peak, for incomparable views of the Aletsch Glacier. There are also pretty villages around Fiesch, within a longish walking distance if you like, or a half-hour drive up.

Zürich

Where To Stay Zürich offers a range of accommodation to suit every budget and persuasion. There are hotels (from simple guesthouses to deluxe hotels), apartments, B&Bs, youth hostels and even campsites. The budget ZicZac Rock Hotel (from CHF 137.50; book at www.zuerich.com) is only a 10-min walk from the train station and has quirky, themed rooms. Hotel St Josef (from CHF 100; www.st-josef.ch) is another budget option in the heart of town. At the top end, your options include the luxurious hotel Baur au Lac (from CHF 540; www.bauraulac.ch), family-owned since it opened its doors in 1844. The hotel is very central, with a private park by Lake Zürich and adjoining the Bahnhofstrasse.

What To See & Do Zürich itself has a venerable history. Humans have pottered about this site for millennia, and the Romans had a fort here. The place in which that fort stood is now the Lindenhof or linden court, from where you can see the spires and domes of the old city across the Limmat river. There are also good views from a cruise on Lake Zürich. The splendid Swiss National Museum has especially fine collections of icons, books and lace. The station itself is a classical edifice, busy with exhibitions and markets all year round, including a Christmas market. All in all, with its imposing banks and boulevards, the city is a monument to high living.

In Zürich, the ZürichCARD is good value for money. It gives access to city transport (including boats on Lake Zürich), free entrance to 40 museums, free welcome drinks in about 20 restaurants and various reductions in shops. A card valid for 24 hours costs CHF 19, while a three-day card comes for CHF 38. The card can be bought at the airport, at train stations, hotels in the city and the Tourist Service at Zürich station. See www.zuerich.com.