Hello Marco,
I am trying to organise a vacation with my fiancé post our wedding this November. We live in Chennai and plan to go to Bhutan. However, before proceeding there, we plan to spend two days each in Kolkata and Darjeeling. After which we will take our flight from Kolkata to Paro. We will have six nights in Bhutan. Can you suggest a good way to go about organising our tour in Bhutan? Also, can you recommend some places to stay in Kolkata and Darjeeling? Our budget is moderate to high, but what is more important is the experience. I would rather we stayed in some quaint cottage in Darjeeling than a famous name.
Jayashree
Dear Jayashree,
I usually do not like to recommend specific travel agents, but in this instance I have no hesitation in suggesting that you engage the services of Bhutan Scenic Tours (+975-8-271634, www.bhutanscenictours. com). Run by the courteous, knowledgeable and ever-resourceful Tshering Dorji, they specialise in intimate, custom-made tours of the Himalayan nation. Six nights should be enough to cover the main sights. I’d personally suggest, however, that you spend less time in well-trodden tourists haunts like Thimphu and Paro, and instead make time to visit Punakha (which boasts the most beautiful dzong in all Bhutan), Bumthang (noted for its buckwheat noodles and Red Panda beer — and a venerable circuit of temples) and Phobjikha (the famed valley of the black-necked cranes, and in November, when you intend to visit, they would have flown in from Tibet to roost). The last two take a while to get there, but even if you have to extend your trip by a day or two to include them, trust me, it’ll be well worth it. Bhutan Scenic Tours can customise a tour for you but you also have the option of choosing one of their fixed itineraries. Their 2009 daily package rate for Indian nationals is Rs 4,950 per person per night, all-inclusive. This includes hotels, all meals, transport, sightseeing, entrance fees, permits and the services of an excellent guide.
In Kolkata, I’d suggest you check into Chrome, a stylish, new, boutique hotel in the heart of town (from Rs 5,250; 033-30963096, www.chromehotel.in). Before recommending hotels in Darjeeling, I consulted a long-term resident of the hill station and this is what she suggested (in order of preference): Classic Guest House (Rs 1,500-1,800; 9733430980, rajn_classic@hotmail.com), The Swiss Hotel (Rs 2,600; 9733000446, www.olddarjeeling. com) and Dekeling Resort (Rs 3,100; 0354-2253092, www.dekeling.com). Classic Guest House, commonly known as Dant (as in teeth) Kothi (don’t ask me why!) is noted for having the finest views of the Kanchendzonga massif. The Swiss Hotel is a century-old heritage property which was once a Swiss bakery. It is now managed by eco-conscious operators Help Tourism who can also be contacted for reservations (033-24550917, www.helptourism.com). Dating from the late-19th century, the Dekeling Resort is a cosy, family-run establishment. Have a nice holiday.
Hi Marco!
I live in Mumbai and this November end I am getting married. My wedding is at Patna. I have to plan my honeymoon (duration: three-four days) and my budget is around Rs 25,000 excluding air/train/ bus fare. Please help me choose a nice destination around Western/Central India where I can spend some quality time with my would-be.
Amritanshu
Dear Amritanshu,
Western and Central India is certainly a very broad canvas, so it’s difficult to recommend anything specific really. However, Mandu in Madhya Pradesh comes to mind, that celebration in stone of the love of the poet-prince Baz Bahadur for his consort Rani Roopmati. MPTDC runs the unassuming Malwa Resort here (Rs 1,890 for an AC double; 07292-263235, www.mptourism.com). If you were willing to venture a little further afield, I would recommend Wildernest (from Rs 6,000 all-inclusive; 0831-4201662, www.wildernest-goa.com), a magical nature resort in Goa, which is easily approached on the overnight Konkan Kanya Express from Mumbai (get off at Thivim; Rs 1,018/2A). Nestled 800m above sea level in the Swapnagandha valley, and surrounded by thick tracts of forest, the resort overlooks the Vazra falls and offers panoramic views of Goa. Wildernest also fits in neatly into your budget.
I am planning to visit the following places: Tadoba, Pench, Chikhaldara, Aurangabad, Ajanta and Ellora in Oct-Nov this year. Please guide me on how to plan my tour, my accommodation options and how to go about organising jungle safaris. I have about 11 days on the whole.
Vipul Doshi
Hi Vipul,
A circuit of Central India at this time of year should be very pleasant. You haven’t told me where you’re setting out from and if you intend to drive yourself so I’ll just go with a rough itinerary. If you start with Pench, two nights there followed by two in Tadoba, two in Chikhaldara and perhaps two or three in Aurangabad (the base for exploring Ajanta and Ellora) should cover the ground and leave you with two travel days to bookend your holiday with. You will be mixing up your themes: wildlife followed by a laid-back hill station and some energetic rounds of heritage-spotting but I daresay you won’t mind that.
In Pench, try the Pench Jungle Camp (from Rs 2,500; 07695-232817, www.wildlife-camp-india.com) and MPTDC’s Kipling’s Court (from Rs 2, 290; 07695-232830, www.mp tourism.com). There are several other options around the park. For safaris, you can book at the gate or get your hotel to organise it for you, in which case jeeps pick you up at the hotel. Only the park’s open jeeps are allowed in and each carries six persons (Rs 800 per session), which is available both at the gate as well as organised by almost all hotels in the area. Other expenses include the entry fees (Rs 500) and guide fees (Rs 150). In Tadoba, you can stay either at Tiger Trails (Rs 6,000 per person on double occupancy; 9822930703, 94224 41148, www.tigertrails.in), a country-style homestay in Chichghat Forest Valley or the MTDC hotel at Moharli (Rs 1,100-1,350; 9921027275, www.maharashtratourism. gov.in). You’re allowed to drive into Tadoba Tiger Reserve in your own vehicle and jeeps are available for hire at Chandrapur (Rs 800-1,000). If you stay at Tiger Trails, of course, they’ll organise the safaris.
In Chikhaldara, try The Satpura Retreat (from Rs 1,500; 07220-230471, www.satpura retreat.com), and in Aurangabad, Lemon Tree Hotel (from Rs 3,300; www.lemontreehotels. com) is a good stay option.
Hi Marco,
My 65-year-old aunt and her 28-year-old daughter are coming to visit India for
20 days in October. Please suggest some places for them to visit around Delhi and Chandigarh. They will be travelling by taxi most of the time.
Dr R.K. Goel
Dear Dr Goel,
There are a range of places one can visit around Delhi and Chandigarh, but since you don’t mention whether this is their first visit to India, I will start with the obvious. Needless to say, Agra is a must-visit for the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri. While cab is always an option, you could even consider taking a Volvo bus to Agra, which offers comfortable rides. Both AC (from Rs 500) and non-AC (from Rs 210) options are available (see www.redbus.in). Jaipur is also worth checking out, especially if they are interested in shopping. From marble to tie and dye, silver to wood carvings and art — the bazaars in Jaipur are a fascinating place. The Delhi-Jaipur highway offers excellent connectivity and here too, taking a Volvo bus is a safe bet.
If wildlife is their thing, then they could visit either Corbett National Park (6hrs from Delhi) or Sariska National Park (3.5hrs). October is a good month for wildlife and bird sightings. For some peace and quiet, I would recommend Rishikesh for a weekend, perhaps. It is not too cold at this time and should be rather pleasant. There are plenty of choices for accommodation. For further reading, have a look at Outlook Traveller’s guidebook, Weekend Breaks from Delhi, which gives information on 52 spots around Delhi that merit a visit.
Travel confusion?
Email mpolo At outlookindia.com.
Please note that Marco will reply to selected queries only in the magazine.