the list
Bucolic Beds
10 ways to succumb to the charms of country living.
rajasthan
The joy of doing nothing at a Rajasthani farm.
Bibek Bhattacharya
west bengal
Slows down and goes with the flow in rural Bengal’s Monchasha
Devalina Mookerjee
tamil nadu
Spends a few days in rural bliss watching coffee beans ripen and silk cotton pods burst deep in the Palani hills
Usha K.R.

1. Parashar Agritourism, Junnar

Modern agri-rural India takes place of pride at Junnar in Maharashtra, where the twice-yearly Bail Pola festival that exhorts farmers to make much of the bullock pair who drew their plough has been transmuted into the feting of the tractor. Visitors here enjoy rather a thorough engagement with rural enterprise, not restricted to just sugarcane and mango festivals, but also Lavani performances and bullock-cart racing. It depends on your eagerness and tolerance, but you can take up the plough or milk the cows and muck them out here while you overnight in a thatch-walled rustic hutment and enjoy the local fare in the communal dining hall. For R&R, there are the traditional options of ningorcha, vitti dandu or bhovara, the weekly market, a pilgrimage to the local temple or sightseeing at the nearby Shivneri fort. TARIFF Overnight packages from Rs 1,500 per person for 1N/1D (including village tours, folk entertainment and meals) to Rs 4,000 for 3N/4D CONTACT 02132-203012, 9970515438, hachikotourism.in

2. The Only Olive, Aldona

A small family home in a Goan village serves as a vacation address to urban visitors far from the beaches and raves. Only Olive offers one of the more hands-on rural experiences without any attempt to romanticise the local lifestyle or gild the bucolic lily. The century-old Portuguese-style villa’s three bedrooms are nature-cooled; gardening equipment stands ready for you to plant, water and weed; fishing rods are provided if you prefer to cast into the river; there’s a well to draw water for your al fresco shower; and a barbecue to grill the excellent sausages stuffed and dried by the neighbours. As for mod cons and guest services, the complimentary breakfast is cooked for you, laundry done and less vernacular drinks stocked in an honesty bar in the dining room. TARIFF Rs 4,000–4,500 per night CONTACT 9967024680, theonlyolive.com

3. Ampthill Farm Stay, Kodaikanal

A modest (two-room) farmhouse in the mountain village of Poondi, just over an hour’s drive from Kodaikanal, subtends a greenhouse and a garden of medicinal and aromatic plants, as well as ornamental flowers, surrounded by pine groves and lovely views. It’s close enough to a number of wildlife sanctuaries to be a great spot for birdwatching and you might even meet the occasional gaur or barking deer. The organic farming techniques are interesting for even urban amateur gardeners, and a walk around the rural countryside of terrace cultivation and the colourful village itself an education. The most important treat that city slickers absolutely should not miss is a chance to stargaze at 7,000ft, far from the glare of urban light pollution.TARIFF cottage-style room Rs 5,000 per night, inclusive of all meals CONTACT 9443342251 (Babu Cherian), ampthill.co.in

4. Grassroutes, Maharashtra

Village life is not all underpaid toil and strife in Valwanda; celebration and leisure are as mandatory in these Warli-painted pastoral homes, be it the spontaneous decoration of their spaces with exquisite yet everyday images or the rituals of the rice harvest. There is an enjoyment and skill in sowing a straight line of seedlings or rhythmically pounding apart the grain from the chaff equal to the fun of drawing lines on a red-earth wall—and Grassroutes offers urban visitors the chance to not just gawk but wade in with both feet and hands through their Warli village and Story of Rice tours of Valwanda, Dehna and Purushwadi, their exertions fuelled by local cuisine featuring forgotten grains as well as the staple rice. Accommodation is in the villagers’ own homes or tents, meals their homecooked vegetarian fare. The Warli tours of Valwanda run on all weekends from mid-June to April-May; The Story of Rice tours are timed to key activities in the agricultural calendar (sowing, transplanting and harvest) COST Both tours Rs 2,350 per person per night (including all meals and service tax) CONTACT 8879477437, grassroutes.co.in

5. Oyster Opera, Thekkekadu

If you’re looking for a change of pace to unwind next weekend, you might find yourself as happy as a clam if you float down to the Oyster Opera in Kasargod. It’s not just the delicious molluscs and crustaceans, the waving palms and the watery blue mirrors of God’s Own Country that will cheer you up, but the refreshing novelty of presiding over the harvest of your own portion of green-lipped mussels off their coir beds and catching your breakfast fish from under the serpent eagle’s canny eye. The nine red-laterite cottages are rounded off to a ten by a traditional houseboat; a coracle and canoe stand ready for shorter floats. TARIFF Rs 3,000–5,000, including breakfast and taxes CONTACT 0467-2278101, 9447176465, oysteropera.in

6. Manvar, Shergarh

Moti Singh Rathore’s tented camp in the Thar is at a short distance from the main resort, which provides sustenance to several residents of neighbouring villages, which also depend on his farm for the nearest natural water supply. In some seriously inhospitable terrain, it is a revelation to tramp through the sand dunes on camelback, as children walk to school and adults go about their duties of animal husbandry, agriculture and more modern endeavours like building works and mercantile enterprise in small local markets. Both camp and resort, the latter built with reference to vernacular dhani architecture and the former in luxurious shikari style, are a cushy contrast to the rural lifestyle surrounding them. For those who need their creature comforts alongside a reminder of a less ‘developed’ lifestyle just outside our burgeoning cities, this is the place to enjoy more than a tribal song and dance by campfire. Siberian cranes come to overwinter at nearby Khichan; the Bishnoi, caretakers of local ecology by traditional culture, have themselves made more permanent settlements nearby. TARIFF doubles from Rs 5,500 (including breakfast and taxes) at the Resort, from Rs 10,500 (with breakfast, dinner and taxes) at the Camp CONTACT 0291-2511600, manvar.com

7. Chhotaram Prajapat's Homestay, Salawas

A camel safari to Osian and a tour of a Bishnoi village may seem the key attractions of this property—until you arrive at your earthen cot in a rustic courtyard, much like some of the potters’ and weavers’ homes you might visit in the area. Salawas sits right on the edge of Jodhpur, which makes this a particularly convenient trip to take if roughing it is not your style. The Guda Lake nearby, where the Bishnoi make their home, serves as a watering hole to blackbucks and chinkara, as well as attracting migratory birds in winter. Unlike more cushy resorts, there’s not much choice at mealtimes—just the regular Rajasthani fare dished up by the ladies of the house. But the warm hospitality of the family wins repeat visitors and rave reviews from India and abroad. TARIFF Rs 1,900 per day (including village safari, all meals and pick-up) CONTACT 9414720724, salawashomestay.com

8. Punjabiyat, Amritsar

Accustomed creature comforts meet the realities of contemporary agricultural lifestyle at Punjabiyat, which invites urban ants to revisit their ‘native’ roots an hour’s drive from Amritsar. Sons (and daughters) who have strayed from the soil can take pride in sojourning within four sets of mud-brick walls and eat their ancestral plates of stuffed paratha, even if they retreat occasionally to withdrawing rooms kitted out with contemporary sanitary fittings and supplement their diet with a burra sahib’s portion of eggs and breakfast cereal. Still, there is hearty consolation in having the yellow mustard fields flowering outside the glass walls of your shower cubicle and being a 50-mile-radius locavore, cycling down to thank the cows in the dairy for the morning milk, greeting the water buffaloes and helming the tractor for a token few minutes. Because there is a nostalgic villager in the secret heart of every city dweller. Punjabiyat is closed in summer (April 16–July 10). TARIFF Rs 7,000–8,000 (including breakfast and taxes); festival offer till Nov. 30: Rs 1,000 off all tariffs CONTACT 9818705508, itmenaanlodges.com

9. Martam Village Resort, Sikkim

Villages in the mountainous terrains of Sikkim often consist of scattered habitations rather beyond hailing distance from each other. In Martam, adjacent to the Phamnongla Wildlife Sanctuary, they span three communities—Lepcha, Bhutia and Nepali. These fourteen thatched cottages may be the closest neighbours together; but farther neighbours are happy to welcome wanderers into their own homes and share their world, and a cup of tea with you. The beautiful red panda in the sanctuary, a short day trek away, is one of your shyer neighbours here. The border with Tibet is also within a day’s march, as is a picnic on the Teesta and the tea gardens of Temi, Sikkim’s only and government-run but open to visitors. Your table, when you get back, will be laid with the ‘fruits of the forest’—nettles, ferns, mushrooms and bamboo shoots, served on local rice and washed down with chhang. TARIFF doubles Rs 2,900 (including breakfast, taxes extra) CONTACT 03592-203314, 9434023314, sikkim-martam-resort.com

10. Mahua Vann, Pench

Why would you go to a resort whose USP is tiger safaris to enjoy the idyll of country living? Because Mahua Vann, for all its hallmarks of the modern hospitality industry (air-conditioning and open-to-sky showers), harks back to a simpler time—ethnic architecture and furnishings, and local flora planted to recreate the ‘jungle’ once so common. Also on the agenda, to remind you these times are far from past (though the swimming pool does give the lie to this fiction) are visits to the village of Pachdhar, where you can try your hands at the potter’s wheel, rural walks to explore the livestock sheds and neat vegetable gardens of the neighbours, and the weekly Wednesday haat where they come to trade in artisanal crafts, homegrown produce and mundane necessaries. Mahua-flavoured comestibles are an added attraction in season. TARIFF Rs 8,100 (with all meals); visit to the potters’ village Rs 1,700 (approx. two hours) CONTACT 07695-290451, 8889231818, mahuaresorts.com

rajasthan
The joy of doing nothing at a Rajasthani farm.
Bibek Bhattacharya
west bengal
Slows down and goes with the flow in rural Bengal’s Monchasha
Devalina Mookerjee
tamil nadu
Spends a few days in rural bliss watching coffee beans ripen and silk cotton pods burst deep in the Palani hills
Usha K.R.
 
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